[Rich Lee is a programmer at SAS and a coach at Triangle Rock Club. Rich is currently enrolled in the Athletic Lab Coach Apprenticseship Program]

downloadThe Problem

Physical characteristics of a climber often include “Popeye” fore-arms, an iron grip, and a rounded muscular back. This rounded back syndrome is a result of a muscular imbalance caused by undertraining muscles not actively engaged during climbing. To ensure that muscles and tendons are not stressed to a point of injury, a workout that keeps overall muscle strength in balance should be followed to protect shoulders, elbows and fingers.

Why it Matters

For climbers, the most common injuries are to fingers, elbows and shoulders. Injuries can happen to muscles or tendons, but the root cause is often the same overuse and imbalance. Climbing uses agonist muscles the gripping, pulling and locking muscles that help you grasp a hold and pull yourself up a route. Injuries can occur when these pulling muscles are overworked or when they become significantly stronger than their partner “push” muscles the antagonists because muscles work in pairs. For example, to bend your elbow, the bicep (the agonist muscle) contracts and the triceps (the antagonist muscle) relaxes. If your bicep is much stronger than your tricep, then you’re at risk for injuries.

There’s also an important correlation between muscle strength and tendon strength.

Muscles build strength faster than tendons, so building muscle strength too quickly (or out of balance overall) puts your tendons at risk for injury. Tennis elbow and golfer’s elbow could just as easily be called climber’s elbow because they are very common in climbers.

Tackle the Problem

The solution to the muscle imbalance is to incorporate a weight workout focused on your climbing-specific antagonist muscles. These are the “push” muscles that don’t get as much use while you are climbing. Just climbing and climbing a lot doesn’t cut it. Such a workout doesn’t have to be a time consuming regime, just a couple of times a week. But be diligent it’s your best defense against injuries.

As with any exercise, warm up first with 10 to 15 minutes of light activity.

  1. Extensor stretch and flexors stretch.
  2. Finger exercises with a rubber band to strengthen finger extensors.
  3. Reverse wrist curls – two sets of 15-20 reverse wrist curls using a 5 to 15 pound weight. Lower weight and higher reps are what you’re shooting for.
  4. Pronator exercises for the forearm using either a dumbbell or a sledgehammer. Lower weight and higher reps are the goal. Work up to two sets of 15 to 20.
  5. Shoulder press, using either dumbbells or a barbell. Only do these exercises if you have NO pain in your shoulders. Again, lower weight and more reps are the key. Work up to two sets of 25.
  6. Bench press, using either dumbbells or a barbell. Only a moderate weight is needed to be beneficial. Aim to start with about 25 percent of body weight. Work up to two sets of 20 to 25 reps.
  7. External Rotation Rotator Cuff Exercises. Work up to two sets of 15. It is important NOT to use heavy weights for these exercises. Generally no more than 3 to 10 pounds.

 

References